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Extant Frankish Clothing

Extant Finds
  • Sunday, May 04 2008 @ 08:47 PM UTC
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Extant Frankish Clothing

By Jennifer Baker
Hodegon - New Varangian Guard
April 2008

Note: I have only listed clothing items found to be in /or close by to France

Iron Age to Early Medieval
Iron Age (c700 BC-43 AD)
The Roman occupation (43 AD-c410)
The 'Dark Ages' and the Anglo-Saxons (c410-1066)
Early Anglo-Saxon (450-650)
Middle Anglo-Saxon (650-800)
Total Number of
Tunics - 8
Coats - 1
Skirts - 0
Cloaks - 6
Leg wear - Trousers - 0
Leg wear - Leg wraps - 1
Leg wear - sock - 1
Footwear - shoes - 7
Headwear - hats - 0
Headwear - hoods - 0
Headwear - other - 2
Other items - 3
Bronze, Iron Age to Early Medieval
Location Items Name / Cat No. Description Date
Tunics
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent no. 46, Pages no.6, Audollent tomb D Tunic - (female Grave)
The primary material is wool
Description: coptic-style with waist tuck
1st c. (but Desrosiers says 2nd c.)
Centre, Bourges, Fin Renard cemetery France   Tunic
The primary material is wool
Description: t-shaped tunic woven in one piece, with painted clavi
3rd c. CE
Chelles France Queen Bathilde Tunic - (female Grave) Bathilde (Queen, Saint)
The primary material is linen
Description: front panel only, embroidered with silk in form of jewelry, called a "chasuble" but probably erroneously chainstitch embroidery - The embroidery is executed using chain, running, and satin stitches throughout. The design is made up of two collars with a pendant pectoral cross and medallions with a variety of motifs. The embroideries closely resemble the jeweled and enameled metalwork of the era. On the inner and outer collars, rows of gold stitches surround the red and blue outlines that mimic pearls. A row of blue arrowhead shaped motifs run between the two collars - Smaller figures in roundels surround the cross - the crosses worked in gold and gems used by the Church. Both have pendant stones hanging from the arms of the cross with the embroidered design having additional hanging stones on the bottom of the vertical bar.
7th c. ca. 680
Chelles France Queen Bathilde Blouse
The primary material is linen
Description: The blouse known as the Chasuble de Bathilde is housed at the Albert Bonno Museum in the town of Chelles. The front of the garment is the only remaining piece and it measures 117 cm by 84 cm. It is a linen fiber in a fine plain weave embroidered with silks in several colors (red, green, two blues and two yellows).
7th c. ca. 680
Provence, Alpes, Cote d'Azur France sarcophagus no. 20 Tunic
The primary material is silk
Description: w/gold-embroidered silk bands
5th c. CE
St. Denis Cathedral France Queen Arnegunde Tunic
The primary material is silk
Description: Jewellery of Queen Arnegunde, who died 570, and gold thread embroidery which was at the cuff of the sleeve of her dress. The dress itself was silk, as were all the other garments, including the veil.
ca. 570
Sens Cathedral Museum France Saint Ebbo (or Ebbon ) Tunic - of Ebbo (or Ebbon, saint)
The primary material is silk
Description: dalmatic with narrow applied clavii
8th c.
Chelles France Saint Bertillle Tunic - of Saint Bertillle
The primary material is silk
Description: The tunic in which Bertille was buried is a far more rich and elegant garment, although in a badly deteriorated state. The brown silk of the textile had yellow stripes woven in along the lower edges of the sleeve and body of the tunic. The sleeves are decorated with a tablet woven braid of yellow, rust brown, and dark brown.
Ca. 700
Coat
Chelles France Queen Bathilde Coat - (female Grave) Bathilde (Queen, Saint)
The primary material is silk
Description: open-fronted robe with over-long sleeves, known as the "grande robe"
The garment known as "Le Grande Robe de Bathilde" is made of a very fine linen of a tabby weave. It was open down the front and was likely secured with a belt, similar to Figure # from the 9th century manuscript the Apocalypse of Valenciennes. The body of the robe was cut in one piece with a center opening that extends the length of the front to midway down the back. Triangular gores were added to give fullness to the hem width. The sleeves are wider at the top than at the hem, and are overly long, perhaps secured in place by metal bracelets similar to the Norse fashion. The collar provides a great deal of interest in it's cut and design. It formed a large folded over cowl collar
7th c. ca. 680
Skirts
       
Cloaks
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent tomb A Cloak - rectangle
The primary material is wool
Description: several woollen "blankets"
2nd c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent tomb B? Cloak - rectangle
The primary material is wool
Description: brown gray shawl
2nd c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent tomb F Cloak - rectangle
The primary material is wool
Description: with fringes
2nd c. CE
Provence, Alpes, Cote d'Azur France sarcophagus no. 20 Cloak - rectangle
The primary material is silk
Description: w/fringed ends
5th c. CE
Sens Cathedral Museum France   Chasuble
The primary material is silk
Description:
8th c.
Chelles France Queen Bathilde Cloak - semicircular ( Manteau of Bathilde )
The primary material is
Description: Bathilde was interred dressed in a large semicircular cloak (manteau) of red color with yellow fringes with a brooch at her chest
7th c. ca. 680
Leg wear
Provence, Alpes, Cote d'Azur France sarcophagus no. 20 Leg Wrap
The primary material is linen
Description: purpose unclear, just says "wrapping strips"
5th c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent no. 48, Audollent tomb D Sock ( female grave)
The primary material is wool
Description: A pair of socks found as part of a complete outfit in a woman's grave. Formed of two pieces: a straight tube for the leg and a folded half-oval for the toe. They reach to just above the knee and are finished with a short braided fringe at the top. Just below this, there are threads missing (or removed) from the fabric that may have allowed for a garter to be threaded through it for fastening. The fabric is a 2/2 twill, apparently undyed but now a dark brown, possibly from burial staining.
1st c. (but Desrosiers says 2nd c.)
Footwear
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent no. 49 Shoe
The primary material is wool
Description: grouping with these items is tentative, provenence unclear
2nd c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France 137, Audollent tomb A Shoe
The primary material is leather
Description:
2nd c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent tomb B? Shoe
The primary material is silk
Description: may no longer survive
2nd c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent tomb C Shoe
The primary material is
Description:
2nd c. CE
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent tomb D Shoe
The primary material is leather
Description
1st c. (but Desrosiers says 2nd c.)
Martres-de-Veyre France inv. Nr. 987.23.36, Audollent tomb E Shoe
The primary material is wood
Description: lined with textile
2nd c. CE
Chelles France   Shoe
The primary material is silk
Description:
7th c.
Headwear
St. Denis Cathedral France Queen Arnegunde Veil
The primary material is silk
Description: Jewellery of Queen Arnegunde, who died 570, and gold thread embroidery which was at the cuff of the sleeve of her dress. The dress itself was silk, as were all the other garments, including the veil.
ca. 570
Chelles France Queen Bathilde Hair ribbons
The primary material is gold and silk
Description: her plaited hair was wrapped in gold and silk bands dyed in the colors of red, yellow and green.
7th c. ca. 680
Other items
Martres-de-Veyre France Audollent no. 47, Pages no. 5, Audollent tomb D Belt
The primary material is wool
Description: ( female grave )
1st c. (but Desrosiers says 2nd c.)
Provence, Alpes, Cote d'Azur France sarcophagus no. 20 Maphorium
The primary material is silk
Description: "Maphorium" - doesn't explain what this is
5th c. CE
St. Denis Cathedral France Queen Arnegunde Jewellery
The primary material is
Description:
  1. Belt buckle and counterplate
  2. Diskbrooch with garnets
  3. Diskbrooch with garnets.
  4. Earrings.
  5. Embroidery at the sleeve-cuff.
  6. Hairpins.
  7. Buckles and strap ends for the legbindings.
  8. Pin for fastening the veil.
  9. Sealring with inscription Arnegundis Regina.
  10. Buckles and strap ends for the shoes.
ca. 570

Thank you to the following people - For helping to case down, the details on some of the Hats & caps

  • Cherilyn Fuhlbohm - Antioch New Varangian Guard
  • Andrea Willett - Dubh Linn New Varangian Guard
  • Sandy Sempel - Frojel Gotlantica Viking Re-enactment Society
  • Prof Lena Strid - Waterford & Oxford Archaeology

Web References:

Book Reference:

Other good websites on Franks clothing

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